What we look for
Buying Rolex well
Rolex is where most collections begin and a surprising number end. The appeal is not complication but tolerance: an Oyster case that still seals after forty years, a Perpetual rotor that still winds, a chronometer rating that still holds to within a few seconds a day.
We buy Rolex on the case first. An unpolished 1655 with sharp lug chamfers and a crisp caseback is worth a multiple of the same reference refinished to within an inch of its life. Dial variants matter too - gilt versus matte, an inverted six, a Stella lacquer - and we photograph them under raking light so you can judge for yourself before anything ships.